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: Turkish Delights
Turkey is well known for many food, and drinks. Outside the country, Turkish coffee and raki - pronounced rak-uh (or raki as many people say!) are probably the most famous beverages. Within Turkey, ayran might miss out to tea as the nation's favourite but would surely prove a strong competitor. Probably a long way behind but from the same family of fermented beverages is boza and kefir. Whilst ayran is seen mostly as a drink to accompany meals or a refreshing mouthful on a hot summer's day, boza and kefir are surrounded by nutritional benefits and health claims.


Yoghurt, or yogurt as it is also spelt, results from the bacterial fermentation of milk. Whilst its origins are unclear, it is likely that the first cultured milks appeared by accident after random fermentation from wild bacteria living on animal hides. The word itself derives from the Turkish yogurt and traditional transliteration spells yoghurt. But not only did the Turks provide the world with the term for the sour, thickened milk but were probably responsible for introducing it to European cuisines. Suleyman the Magnificent is said to have sent his doctor to cure the apparently incurable stomach ailment suffered by Francis I in France. The cure was of course yoghurt.

Ayran is a mixture of yoghurt, water and salt. The thickness may vary across Turkey with those down south preferring something a little firmer. Most commercial manufacturers add approximately 1% salt, that is, about 1g for every 100ml of liquid. Unsalted versions are available and can be easily prepared at home. Ayran is the perfect accompaniment to kebabs, doner, lahmacun (very thin flat style pizza), gozleme (savoury flat filo style pastry - see recipe on post August 12, 2008) and some pide (thicker crust style pizzas) and borek (savoury pastry).


The potential health benefits attributed to the bacteria of yoghurt are related to the traditional, spontaneously fermented milks, not those soured with standard bacteria used in industrial production. Ayran purchased in sealed plastic and foil cups are unlikely to provide the sought after gastrointestinal assistance where any bacteria present will not survive the harsh internal environment of the human body.

For the full article and more on boza and kefir follow the link.
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Confectionery has come along way since it was used to mask the flavour of unpleasant medicine in the 14th century. Turkish delight has come a long way for me since the days of Fry’s (now Cadbury’s Fry’s) blocks of red jelly coated in milk chocolate. The first time I went to the Spice Bazaar in Istanbul I was dazzled by the huge array of Turkish delight and became an almost instant convert.

In Ottoman cuisine sweetmeats made from mixtures of honey or molasses and flour and water have been known since the 16th century. The invention of the world-renowned Turkish delight, ‘lokum’, is attributed to a confectioner from north-eastern Turkey, Haci Bekir, who set up shop in Istanbul in the late 1770’s. At the time, the Ottomans’ favourite sweet was the hard boiled candy known as ‘akide’. The lokum legend tells of the Sultan crying out for soft candy after he cracks a tooth crunching into a hard-boiled sweet.

Upon hearing this plea, Haci Bekir went to work mixing water, sugar, flour and rosewater then hesitantly bit into the results. A soft, chewy morsel, named rahatü’l-hulkum, or lokum as it has become known in Turkey and Turkish delight in English speaking countries was ‘discovered’. The cultivation of sugar cane as we know it today and the discovery of starch in the early 19th century improved the recipe significantly and to this day is the cornerstone of Turkish delight.

The descendents of Haci Bekir still sell Turkish delight and a whole range of other sweets from the original premises in Istanbul!

Hacı Bekir shop front, Istanbul
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