SHARON CROXFORD
Cinnamon - the condiment of choice in the late Ottoman era
September 6th 2008 14:21
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Turkish Delights
Almost every spice stall in the Spice Bazaar in Istanbul will have small bundles of dark reddish brown cylinders of something that is labelled cinnamon. Closer inspection of the aromatic bark will show the learned cook that almost all the product available is in fact cassia. From a distance it looks the same and up close the fragrance is similar, but there are differences that your home spice grinder will tell you about.
Cinnamon was known to the Seljuk kitchens of the 11th - 14th centuries and became part of the rich culinary legacy bequeathed to Ottoman and to a lesser extent Turkish cuisine. The use of the spice continued throughout the centuries to be lost in the latter years of the Empire. As late as the 19th century cinnamon was an important ingredient in dishes and also a condiment added when finishing a dish, much the same as salt and pepper are used these days. In A Manual of Turkish Cookery written in English by Turabi Efendi in 1864, many a recipe calls to, sprinkle a little cinnamon over, and serve. From soups to kebabs, stews and kofte, dolma, pilaf and all manner of desserts cinnamon is mentioned. These days it is rare to see cinnamon used in savoury dishes, with the exception of some fillings for dolma.
Cinnamon or cassia sticks can be kept for 2-3 years in the right conditions, in an airtight container away from heat and humidity. Grinding releases the aromatic scent of the spice and for this reason will not keep well for very long. It is better to buy small amounts of freshly ground spice whenever required rather than store a larger quantity for any length of time. The choice of cinnamon or cassia depends of the purpose for which it is intended and sometime a blend of two will add the sweetness of true cinnamon with the bold aroma of cassia.
Cinnamon complements a number of recipes including cakes, sweet pastries and biscuits, fruit, especially poached or stewed, curries and a range of dishes within older Turkish and Ottoman cuisine such as cold fish stews and soups.
To read a more in depth article go to Tropical Spices 101: Cinnamon and Cassia
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